Yushan Part 2

I woke up a few minutes before 1:30 am. Everyone was still asleep and I could here the breathing and snoring of everyone else in the room. A few minutes later alarms started going off and people shuffled out of their beds.

While breakfast was being prepared I packed my backpack and got ready for the hike. I went outside to use the w/c and admired the stars. The air was much clearer and there were thousands of stars. The milky way made its way across the sky like a faint cloud. I looked for the southern cross but I couldn't find it. Eventually breakfast came and we quietly ate it and drank coffee while mentally preparing for the hike.

From Paiyun lodge it was only about 3.5 kilometers to the summit. This seemed easy but in effect it was a twisting and steep trail through boulders and up the slope of the mountain. It took us two hours with an occasional rest to make it up. The trail was dark and we only had our flashlights to lead the way. Some of the trail went underneath fragile rocky cliffs. We didn't stay in these places very long for fear that a rock might slip up above and come bouncing down the slope. In many places there were chains attached to the cliff so that we could hold onto it while we walked the trail. Slipping in one of these places could've meant a fatal fall.

In one spot there was a kind of tunnel built along the trail. This was made of wire mesh above to catch the rocks that would slide down. In addition this helped keep the climbers safe during high winds. However during our ascent the winds kept calm and we didn't have to worry. Near the top the steps became steeper and steeper.

By this point I was getting exhausted. It was hard to tell how far away the summit was, and we just kept pushing on. Eventually we reached it and we could see the other side of the mountain. Below the mountain sloped steeply into a wide and deep valley. More mountains were visible on the other side. Fast approaching dawn glowed behind them. We settled into a comfortable seat to watch the sunrise while our guides started boiling water to make tea and coffee.

It was a nice sunrise, the first I have seen in some time. We lounged around the summit drinking coffee and taking pictures. There were other groups up there too. In all there were probably about 50 people on the summit.

It was cold, but I had enough layers on to keep me comfortable.  The strenuous hike to the summit was all but forgotten as we took in the vista. I looked around thinking about which places are in which direction. They call this the roof of Taiwan because its the highest mountain here. It has certainly given me a new perspective on this country. Most of my experience in Taiwan has been in extremely urban environments. In Taipei it seems like everywhere there are people, scooters, trucks, buildings and pavement. It is easy to get molded into that same landscape everyday.

After awhile we decided it was time to head back down the mountain Ahead of us was a long descent back to the shuttle van. We left the Summit at about 6 am. Back and forth lower and lower to Paiyun lodge. Hiking downhill is in some ways just as difficult as going up. It requires much more precision and control on where you place your foot. Step after step this exertion takes its toll. In addition the weight falls on your knees and joints. I was glad that before the hike I cut my toe nails.

By about 8 am we made it back to the lodge. We had another quick breakfast and packed the gear that we left at the lodge. Then with full packs we started going back the 8.5 km trail to the trailhead. This was very slow and grueling. The occasional signpost with a report of our progress came slowly and the kilometers seemed to trickle by. There was one section where we had to climb up about 4 or 5 flights of stairs and I was left winded and exhausted at the top. We took occasional brief rests, but everyone was anxious to get back so we kept a good pace.

I made it to the shuttle at about 11:30 am. Already a few from our group were there. The rest of the group was behind me and we waited for them. After everyone got back we had a snack and got into the shuttle bus for the long drive back to Taipei.

Again we had to take those snaking mountain roads back down the mountain. It took us about 2-3 hours just to get to the highway. Finally we were making our way up north. We passed Changhua and Taichung, then Hsinchu and we stopped in Taoyuan for dinner. It was also the birthday of one of the kids in our group so we had cake and relaxed. After awhile we got back in the bus and headed back to Taipei. By this point I was starting to worry about getting my apartment arrangements situated. When the bus dropped us off I said goodbye to Ya Chu and all my new friends then quickly caught a taxi and went to meet Sam at my old apartment. Ivan the roommate who is taking over my room met us there. I took a quick shower. Ivan gave me the deposit for the apartment and I gave him the keys. I went over to McDonalds to fulfill a craving I had for a cheeseburger.

Sam helped me take all my stuff to the street and I caught a taxi. The taxi took me to Banqiao in my new temporary apartment. Jess, my new roommate, wasn't there yet, so I carried my three bags up 4 flights of stairs to the landing of my new place. A half hour later Jess showed up and brought me into the room. I got ready for bed and collapsed at about 11pm, after a long, long day. The next morning I went into school and got back to work.